Puerto Viejo - a laid back enclave on a swelling sea

Puerto Viejo is not always the most obvious place to choose if you only have one or two weeks holiday. It is far away from the other places of interest in Costa Rica so is not really a major draw for tourists but... It's an opportunity to discover another side to the country and see animals living freely along the side of the road. And if you are a surfer Puerto Viejo is an ideal spot!

A quiet town

At first sight this isn't an architecturally charming town, it looks more like a fishing village, and the weather doesn't help much either, it's rainy and blowy nearly every day, which doesn't encourage you to go swimming, even if the surfers love it!

But you quickly fall under the spell of this Caribbean style seaside village. It's always lively, with concerts nearly every evening in the different bars in the centre. Some of the restaurants make excellent food and the cuisine is very varied.

During the day there are few vehicles and you can easily rent a bike from one of the many shops to cycle off to the magnificent beaches about 15 minute from the centre.

It's also a good chance to get rid of your old clothes in the second-hand stores and exchange your books in one of the cafes.

Puerto Viejo is not the first place you think of going to, but if you have the time then you should stop there, and take the time to wind down and enjoy its relaxed atmosphere...

©Lola&Lubin

Its surroundings and parks

Once you are settled in to Puerto Viejo then rent a bike for a day to go to the animal sanctuary on the road to Manzanillo. It's not cheap but it's a good opportunity to see the region's animals up close. The centre rescues and cares for animals that have got lost or injured before releasing them back into nature. While you are cycling there keep your eyes open and you will see sloths and monkeys in the trees along the side of the road. If you're feeling fit you can go to Manzanillo, which is about 15 kilometres from Puerto Viejo, and visit its little known National Park. 

Once you've visited Puerto Viejo and its beaches it's time to go to Cahuita, about an hour away. It's bigger and quieter than Puerto Viejo but is also very charming. Here you can go to Cahuita National Park which few tourists know about but which is magnificent and surprising. Follow the path that winds through this marshy jungle and you'll find the hidden coves. The coral reef barrier means you can swim safely. The sky blue water will ensure you aren't sorry you came. At the park's exit there is a bar that sells refreshing drinks, a few sandwiches and fruit, which are very welcome after walking for several hours.

You should allow 4 days for visiting the beaches, parks and surrounding areas of Puerto Viejo.